Ramblings of a gearwhore

Posted: September 23, 2004 in Uncategorized

Finally got to go out and try a pseudo-lead on my new trad gear at the Columns. I say pseudo, but really, I was on toprope and just placing gear as I went without actually clipping anything onto it. But I was weighting them hard to test them out, to the point that Shel spent some 5 minutes trying to clean my top piece. Very educational for just a single short pitch. I’m going to need to work a lot on my cam placement, and getting a feel for sizes so I don’t spend 2 minutes on an unusual spot. But I felt good, and my stuff was pretty damn bomber.

I love my new gear.

I’m reaching a point in my climbing where I’m going to have to suck it up and take some lead falls. I’m simply too comfortable on the 5.9s and below I’ve been leading, but I don’t get in a lot of face climbing in town, and I’m now taking point on most everything we go to climb. I hate the idea of it, but I need to simply start doing it. Especially since I’m at the point that I’m freesoloing portions of 5.8s. I need to just go for a sport lead that I have a good chance of falling on. But really, when I think about it, my biggest hangup off the face of taking a whipper is the chance that I can’t make it past that point, and I have to leave gear. I HATE the thought of leaving gear. I guess so long as it’s a bail biner, I’m only leaving $5 behind.

But still….

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Comments
  1. aardammit says:

    What the fuck did you just say?
    Is this what it sounds like when I talk rugby?

  2. Anonymous says:

    What the fuck did you just say?

    Is this what it sounds like when I talk rugby?

  3. muffster says:

    quick links are even cheeper than ovals πŸ™‚
    I LOVE CLIMBING πŸ˜€

  4. Anonymous says:

    quick links are even cheeper than ovals πŸ™‚

    I LOVE CLIMBING πŸ˜€

  5. a_wags says:

    ive only taken a few bad whippers and usually they are fun… unless you cut or break something (on your body)

  6. Anonymous says:

    ive only taken a few bad whippers and usually they are fun… unless you cut or break something (on your body)

    • Anonymous says:

      if he did get hurt… everyone would find a way to blame it on me… they always do

      • Anonymous says:

        I dunno man, I’d have to get you remotely close to the crags for you to be blameable, and I think we both know that just ain’t happenin. I’d say you’re safe there.

        Besides, they’ll never let you live down the first one, so they won’t need to look for another.

      • Anonymous says:

        I had nothign to do with it!! @!?#@?#@#?!@?!

      • Anonymous says:

        doesn’t matter if you weren’t directly responsible .. still your fault *nod*

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