Another weekend well-spent in central Oregon

Posted: May 24, 2004 in Uncategorized

Well, small wonder I’ve been going to Bend/Redmond area the past 3 weekends. Good times and good weather all around.

Headed out Friday night, and myself in one car and and her dog Rosie in another, tunes blaring and roads surprisingly crowded for 11 at night. Well, sure enough, seems this weekend Smith was the place to be (probably because the weather sucked everywhere else from Canada on down), and nary an open spot was to be found at the Grasslands. So, we found ourself a spot in the overflow area, abortively tried to start a fire, and finally called it a night.

After probably the most comfortable night I’ve ever spend at the Grasslands, we grabbed some coffee and headed out for the main area at Smith. Last trip I’d had every intent to get in a lead on Hop On Pop (5.8) on the Peanut, but never got to it, so that was my first order of business. Unfortunately, a couple of almost freakishly polite Canadians were on it when we got there, but they were very helpful and pointed us to Peanut Brittle, another 5.8 right next to them. So the three of us jumped on it, while the Looney Tunes chipmunk pair pleased, thank-you’d, and be-so-kinded their way around us.

Next order of business was Ancylostoma, a nice 5.9, then we decided to give Catherine Finds An Edge a try over by Asterix Pass. Well, the wind had been pretty hefty at the Grasslands, and while the Smith Rock Group shielded us from it at the main area, it was whipping over Asterix Pass and scouring the intended route, so I just scrambled up for a picture and came back down.

After some pondering we decided on heading for Helium Woman (5.9), which was thankfully open. This was a fun route, but with a slightly misleading start if you followed the chalk, and a bit of a dicey crux, which I just managed to friction my way over. The group next to us was just coming off of Captain Xenolith (5.10a) when we finished, and invited us to jump on. Now, at this point I only had a grand total of 4 leads total under my belt, 3 of which were from this morning, and 5.10a is nearly at my climbing limit, so I was a bit apprehensive about going after this. But, it was well-protected and I figured the attempt would be worth a bail biner as a last resort, so I went for it. Well, I did come off once, but otherwise made it up the mean little crimpfest and got to bask in the glory of leading a 10a for my 5th-ever lead. Talk about satisfaction!

At that point, the clouds were moving in, and it seemed a good idea to end on a good note, so after a couple more snake encounters ( almost stepping on a rattler on rappel and Rosie obliviously walking over another sunning itself on the path) we packed it out. had to head back home, so Shel and I made a quick trip for a rope tarp and opted to head to Bend for dinner. Note for anyone looking for excellent, cheap eats in Bend: Soba Noodles on Bond right downtown has great food for $5-6. Shel had never been into Bend proper, so we took some time to explore, then after a couple phone calls met up with Timmy and Becky at Cascade Lakes Brewery, and were soon joined by Ben and John. Two more bars, many stories and jokes, and a soak in Tim and Becky’s hottub later, we crashed for the night in the Pooh Room.

The next morning was not quite so happy, as my system thoroughly objected (rightfully so) to the Red Bull, Malibu, and Jaeger shot that finished the night before. After stumbling around a bit and voiding my stomache of the offending remains of the night, I decided retreat was the better face of valour and passed out again until noon. By this point home seemed like a good idea, so Shel and I settled in for the drive back to laundry, movies, and stir fry with peanut sauce.

My misson for the weekend to lead whatever I could was completed beyond any of my expectations, and the unexpected Bend Pub Club was a thorough success, regardless of the consequences. And not to mention that I had a couple bona fide bettys for climbing partners!

More pics of the weekend.

  1. a_wags says:

    so much fun! I wish I could of stayed the whole weekend!!!

  2. Anonymous says:

    so much fun! I wish I could of stayed the whole weekend!!!

  3. Anonymous says:

    so much fun! I wish I could of stayed the whole weekend!!!

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